What’s In Between

What’s In Between

“ The most important reason for going from one place to another is to see what’s in between…”. Horton Juster, The Phantom Tollbooth.

Why?

This is a question you may be asking. Why would I embark on a solo road trip between Cincinnati, New Mexico, Minnesota and back home? It’s not as if those destinations are close to each other. As a 61 year old women, is this really a good idea? Well, we are going to find out.

As a child, I spent a large portion of my life in the backseat of the family car on vacation. My father worked for Procter & Gamble and we moved from Seal Beach, California to St Louis to Chicago to Chesapeake, Virginia, to Lima, Ohio and then to Cincinnati. My parents loved to travel but with 3 children, and another to be born when we lived in Virginia, it would have been prohibitively expensive to fly everywhere. Plus flying was such a glamorous event back then, I don’t blame my parents for choosing a car trip over a flight where you needed to be dressed up and on your best behavior. So we drove and often camped while seeing parts of the United States. One summer it was New England, another out West, another the Midwest. Usually whatever was near by where we were living at the time. My mother was a history major so we spent one summer visiting Civil War battlefields (as an 11 year old, this was supremely boring as one field looked just like the next). Both sets of my grandparents lived in Arizona, and my cousins lived in California, so there were many road trips to visit them. I think I developed my love for reading during these trips in the back of the car. If I could get in the way back of the station wagon, that was the perfect spot. Old people will know what the way back was.

One of my favorite books in 4th grade (living in Chicago at the time), was The Phantom Tollbooth. For those unfamiliar, a young, bored boy named Milo is gifted a small tollbooth and he uses his little electric car to drive through it and to worlds beyond. The trip changes his outlook on life. As a child, I yearned to drive myself on a trip to unexplored places. Frankly, I was enamored with driving, hoping to become a bus driver when I grew up since I would be able to drive all day long.

I have traveled to many places here in the US and around the world, and each trip has changed my outlook. But I have never traveled by myself. So on March 1, 2025, I will get in my little car, drive through my little tollbooth, and see what is in between here and there. If you would like to see what it is, please follow along.

Albuquerque, March 5, 2025

Albuquerque averages 310 days of sunshine per year and today was one of those days. Gone were the winds of yesterday, and with a blue cloudless sky I went in search of the last of the Route 66 sites. Route 66 runs straight through Albuquerque on Central Ave and then turns into I-40 on the way out of town. Many original diners and motels remain, and are still in service. The city seems to be very proud of its Route 66 heritage. Often, Route 66 establishments will use National Park Service Route 66 Corridor Preservation Cost-Share grants to help restore and maintain the neon signs.

The 66 Diner started service in 1987 just after the decommissioning of Route 66. However, the diner’s building began as a 1940’s Phillips 66 gas station. The interior decor has been re-envisioned as a retro 1950’s diner. One end of the parking lot displays a vast vintage sign collection.

The KiMo Theatre, a Pueblo Deco movie theater, first opened on Sept. 19, 1927. Pueblo Deco was a short lived architectural style that combines elements of Art Deco with the region’s Pueblo and Territorial architecture. Pueblo Deco appeared at a time when movie-crazy communities were constructing palatial theaters based on exotic models such as Moorish mosques and Chinese pavilions. Native American motifs influenced only a handful of these designs and the KiMo Theatre is a stunning example.

When the El Vado Motel opened in 1937, it was one of New Mexico’s first motels to greet Rout 66 travelers. Daniel Murphy, who built the El Vado, chose the name, Vado, which means “ford” in Spanish, for its location near the old Rio Grande crossing that has become Bridge Street. I tried a month ago to get reservations there, but the motel was completely sold out for an event. I can see why.

The last stop was the Rio Puerco Bridge approximately 19 miles west of Albuquerque. It was built to cross the Rio Puerco, a tributary of the Rio Grande, in 1933. The total bridge length is 330 feet and was originally part of Route 66. It remains open to pedestrians and is right next to I-40, which replaced Route 66 here.

And so US Route 66, sometimes on its own, and sometimes sharing an interstate, continues west through Arizona to its end in Santa Monica. I have a strong desire to just keep going. I know the World’s Largest Petrified Tree in Joseph City, Arizona, a 97 year old train station (still in use) in Williams, Arizona, Elmer’s Bottle Tree Ranch, in Oro Grande, California, as well as Monument Valley, the Grand Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, are all out there waiting for me. It’s ok, I will be back. Maybe with my husband Rod, maybe by myself, but there is more of this road that I want to see. However, this trip is only a third of the way finished and for the next third, I won’t be alone.

Back home in Cincinnati, I am part of a spiritual book group. Since I joined, we have read books by Richard Rohr, Gregory Boyle, Rachel Held Evan’s, John Shelby Spong, Eckhart Tolle, Brene Brown and Brian McLaren. We have also studied The Enneagram (I am a 9). There are approximately 12 of us and we meet about every two weeks while breaking for summer, holidays etc. We are a pretty casual group, but our discussions are deep and rich and thought-provoking. These women come from various Christian backgrounds, various professions, various marriage and family situations. And I treasure these women more than I can say.

Recently, group members suggested (not for the first time) that we visit the Center for Action and Contemplation (founded by Franciscan Richard Rohr in 1987). He saw a deep need for the integration of both action and contemplation as the two are inseparable. According to the Center’s website, “Father Richard likes to say, ‘the most important word in our Center’s name is neither Action nor Contemplation, but the word and.’” So quickly, some members made a plan. The group received an email detailing the dates, itinerary, and possible flights and whoever could come was welcome to join. So the plan for a five day trip was quickly put into motion. Six of us would travel to Albuquerque, visit the Center, see the sites, drive to Moab, Utah and visit Arches National Park, drive to Park City, Utah where one of the women lives during parts of the year and then travel home. This was when I decided to undertake my solo road trip instead of fly. I could combine the book club adventure with my bucket list item of a solo road trip.

At 11:30 this morning I picked up Lisa ,who flew from her part-time home in Park City. Beth, Bridget, Becky, and Barb joined us at the Airbnb after they landed at 1:30. After settling in, we walked around Old Town Albuquerque, looking in shops and stopping by the church the overlooks the square.

For more than 300 years, San Felipe de Neri Parish has been the spiritual heart of Albuquerque. The present church building, constructed in 1793, is one of the oldest surviving buildings in Albuquerque and the only building in Old Town proven to date to the Spanish colonial period.

Attached to the church is the Sister Blandina Convent. Sister Blandina (1850-1941), was an Italian-born American Sister of Charity of Cincinnati and missionary. She became widely known through her service on the American frontier in the late 19th century. During her missionary work, she met, among others, Billy the Kid, and leaders of the Native American tribes of the Apache and Comanche. She served as an educator and social worker who worked in Ohio, Colorado, and New Mexico, assisting Native Americans, Hispanic settlers, and European immigrants. She died in Cincinnati at the age of 91. I had to come to New Mexico to learn about this amazing woman from my home town.

Our dinner reservations at the High Noon Restaurant and Saloon (conveniently located across the street from The Candy Lady that I visited yesterday) awaited, so we walked to the restaurant and enjoyed enchiladas, tacos, taquitos, chile rellenos, and margaritas. It was delicious.

Me, Bridget, Barb, Beth, Becky and Lisa

Back at the Airbnb, after we had some wine and told more stories, the 4 Bs were ready for bed. They had been up early for their flights (with a 3 1/2 hour layover in Atlanta) and were on Cincinnati time. (Lisa and I were on Mountain time so were not fading quite as quickly). Tomorrow the adventure continues, and just like the last four days, today was a wonderful day.

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